First Aid Kit

Introduction to Basic Equine First Aid Equipment

Injuries and accidents are just part of being around horses. Both horse and rider will take a knock or two in the course of your time together. Therefore, it’s highly recommended that you keep a basic first aid kit for your horse around the barn at all times. Check at least once a year to make sure that none of medications have expired. You’ll also probably want to check at least once a month to make sure your barn companions haven’t borrowed all your supplies! There’s a price to being organized, after all...

Equine First Aid Equipment:

Listed below are the minimum items that should be in anyone’s equine fist aid kit:

Equine First Aid book – No matter how experienced you are, it’s a good idea to always have a book outlining some basic first aid techniques, like bandaging or taking your horse’s pulse, just in case.
Vet’s Phone number – Even if you have it programmed in your cell phone, keep in mind that you may not be the one who discovers your horse is sick or injured. Have this information out where anyone can see it and easily make the call if the need arises. You may also want to list a secondary or third vet as well in case your primary vet is unavailable. If you are traveling and are unfamiliar with the area, you can call 1-800-GET-A-DVM for the listing of a vet near you.
Equine Insurance Information – While it won’t be the first number you call, you’ll want to have your equine insurance company’s phone number and your policy number readily available as well. In some cases, the insurance company will demand that you call them before taking any major action like surgery or you won’t be covered so keep it where you can find it just in case.
A roll of cotton - Cotton can be used to clean a wound, as a pressure bandage or to provide padding. There’s also a wide variety of non-emergency uses for it, like plugging your horses ears or filling in the holes in your horse’s shoes if you’ve had them drilled and tapped for studs so it’s good to always have some handy anyway. It’s inexpensive and never expires so keep plenty on hand.
Sheet cotton – Sheet cotton is different than a roll of cotton. Although it also comes in a roll, as the name implies it peels off in thin sheets. It’s best used for sterile leg wraps, particularly if they have to be very tight to encourage a wound to heal with minimum scar tissue. Because so much is used at one time, this is another item that it’s good to make sure you have enough for any emergency.
Antiseptic wound cleanser – There are a number of antiseptics that can be used to clean out wounds and it’s good to have one or more hand if at all possible since each one is needed for slightly different wounds. Betadine Scrub, a form of iodine, or Novalsan should be used to thoroughly clean out any wound. Apply either one to a clean sponge or rag and thoroughly wash and rinse a wound several times before dressing it.

Betadine Solution (a non-sudsing form of Betadine Scrub) can be applied into a wound, such as a puncture wound. You can also mixed it with a little sudsing soap or shampoo to substitute for Betadine Scrub if you’re all out.

Betadine Scrub comes in individual sponges as well, much as you’d find at a veterinarian’s office. They are much more expensive than getting it in the bottle, but if you ever have a situation where you are stuck with no running water they can be a life saver.

Wound dressing – There are a number of different products on the market today sold as wound dressings. Good basic ones to have on hand are spray-on products like Furall, Blue-Kote or Alum that are drying agents. Triple-antibiotic ointment (like Neosporin), and Nitrofurazone (Furacin) are good for wounds that may require more serious bandaging or are already healing. (*A Note to the Cautious: Furacin is considered a carcinogen for humans so you should always use latex gloves when applying it.) Scarlet oil or Cut-Heal fall somewhere in between and are good to use if you aren’t certain or can’t use the sprays because of the wound’s location or your horse’s aversion to aerosols. Always be careful with any wound around the eye. When in doubt as to what to use, a good rule of thumb is never to put anything on wound that will attract dirt, shavings or manure, therefore making it harder for the wound to stay clean and heal.

First and foremost, determine if the wound requires stitches. If so, call your vet immediately. Until he or she arrives, keep the wound as clean and dry as possible and apply pressure if necessary to stop the bleeding. Do NOT apply any ointments or sprays, as they will hinder your vets’ ability to treat your horse.

Anti-fungal creams – Desitin or Novalsan ointment are good antifungal ointments that can be used for a number of skin problems, such as scratches (or greasy heel as it’s sometimes called)
Iodine – Usually a 10% solution is good to have around to treat thrush or other hoof problems. Just painting it on the bottom of the horse’s hoof can aid in the healing of bruises and potentially toughen up the hoof to prevent bruising in the future.
Sterile gauze pads – Keep lots and lots of these on hand. They are great for applying wound ointments and essential for any kind of bandaging. You’ll be surprised how fast they’ll go.
Latex gloves – While you can buy them a few at a time, consider buying an entire box. Like gauze pads, they have many uses and go fast.
Rolls of gauze – Often times for bandages, you’ll need a roll of gauze to hold the gauze pad in place.
Vetrap- Though this crepe bandage that sticks to itself and has a slight stretch/give to it goes by many names, Vetrap is the most recognizable. (It’s similar to the way that not all tissues are Kleenex, but if you ask for it by that name everyone knows what you mean.) Vetrap is essential for any leg bandage that requires pressure, and is handy for poulticing a hoof as well as a dozen other uses. The rolls are small and don’t retain their self-adhesive ability for long once they’ve been opened so be sure to have three or four rolls around at all times just in case.
Ichthamol – Made from a coal-tar base, this black goo doesn't have a delightful smell but is essential for healing bacterial infections such as hoof abscesses.
Baby diapers – Oddly enough, infant diapers are the perfect size and shape to fit on the bottom of most horse’s hooves. Used with ichthamol and secured with Vetrap, they make a handy poultice for bruises and abscesses.
Epsom Salts – Used for treating stone bruises on hooves and abscesses. Usually the horse’s hoof is soaked in a bucket of very warm water and Epsom salts first before being dried applying the ichthamol poultice. There is also a poultice material currently out on the market made of Epsom salts that can be used alone to treat bruises and abscesses.
Poultice for the leg – A clay based poultice material that you can apply directly to the horse’s damp legs, cover with wet brown paper (a cut up grocery bag will do nicely) and then wrap with a stable wrap. This is an effective way to keep swelling down on your horse’s legs due to a day of extraordinary hard work or to keep a chronic leg problem from flaring up as it draws out heat.

Keep in mind that the poultice can be harsh on the skin and needs to be washed off after no more than 24-hours.

Plastic Wrap – It’s good to keep regular plastic kitchen wrap (like Saran Wrap) around in case you need to make a “sweat wrap”. Used in cases where there is swelling in a leg but no heat, a sweat wrap is designed to literally sweat the extra fluids out of the leg. You apply a liberal amount of Furacin directly to the leg, cover it in plastic wrap, and then a regular standing wrap on top of that. Like a poultice, the sweat wrap needs to be removed and hosed off the next day to prevent the medication from literally blistering your horse’s skin. Again, be sure you always wear latex gloves when applying a sweat wrap.
Thermometer - Always keep at least one working thermometer in your first aid kit and if possible one digital and one analog. Digital ones are faster and typically easier to insert but most people agree the analog ones are more accurate. Having one and a back up is always a good idea.
Vaseline – Although no longer favored for treating wounds, it will make using your analog thermometer a whole lot easier. Trust me.
Alcohol – Keep a bottle around to sufficiently clean anything that might go into a wound or your horse, like your thermometer.
Stethoscope – It’s important to have a stethoscope not just to listen to your horse’s respiration, but his gut sounds as well. They are relatively inexpensive and make checking on your horse’s health a lot easier.
Bandage Scissors – Leg bandages are by necessity made out of very tough, rip resistant material so trying to remove them without a pair of bandage scissors is a daunting process. Don’t risk hurting your horse further or possibly hurting yourself with a regular pair of scissors or pocketknife; just make your life easier and get the bandage scissors now, before you really need them.
Clear Eyes – Horses have large eyes that seem to constantly attract foreign objects. Be ready for anything by having a bottle of Clear Eyes around to help remove the object, irrigate their eye and prevent serious injury.
Sterile Saline Solution – A bottle of plain sterile saline solution (like you use for contacts) is good to have around just in case you need to flush a wound out and there is no water available. NEVER use it in your horse’s eye.

Towels – Keep plenty of CLEAN towels and sponges on hand. You don’t want to second guess if someone just used that sponge to oil their saddle as you’re about to clean your horse’s wound.
Disposable syringes – A dose syringe (without the needle) is a priceless piece of equipment in case you need to flush out a puncture wound or deep cut.
Phenylbutazone – Available by prescription only from your vet, Bute is a NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory, analgesic drug) commonly used to reduce swelling, fever, aches and pains. You can ask for it in paste, tablet or powdered form. It’s a good idea to always have some on hand for any number of minor injuries that may come up in day-to-day riding.
Ice – If your barn has a freezer, it’s a good plan to have ice packs in the freezer just in case of any injury that results in heat and swelling, particularly on their legs. If a freezer isn’t available, keep an instant ice pack on hand just in case. They won’t be as cold, but it’s more effective than cold hosing – that is, taking the hose and spraying cold water on the affected area. Whichever method you use, apply cold to the wound for twenty-minutes only, keep it off for twenty, and then apply cold for another twenty. Keep repeating the cycle until the swelling goes down.
Clean Bucket – Keep a bucket with your first aid kid that is only used to clean out wounds, soak abscesses, etc. Don’t just grab one that was used an hour ago to clean tack.

Packing Your First Aid Kit:

Here’s the real challenge: how do you pack all those supplies in a container that is lightweight and portable? A plastic box with a lid and handles is a good option, (such as a hardware toolbox) or finding small enough containers of everything you need so it will fit in a backpack. Keep in mind that you want to be able to carry this out to wherever your horse is, put it in the trailer when you go on the road and yet still be able to find what you need.

How to know when it’s an emergency:

Call your vet immediately if your horse exhibits any of these symptoms and tell him or her specifically what is going on:

When your horse’s temperature is more than three degrees above his normal
When his resting pulse or respiration is more than twenty percent above normal
When the respiration is greater than the pulse
If an injury spurts blood, a wound near a joint oozes amber colored fluid (indicating the joint has been compromised) or if bones, tendons or ligaments are clearly exposed.
When you can’t hear any gut sounds
If your horse refuses to put weight on one leg or hops while trying to move

Horse Injuries

Tendon injuries

Because of the strain running and jumping puts on a horse’s front legs, horse injuries are all too common. The first signs are usually heat and swelling in the lower leg caused by the torn fibers of the tendons or ligaments. The superficial and deep flexor tendons, as well as the suspensory ligament and check ligament are all at risk.

Call your veterinarian if you suspect a tendon injury. Immediately start applying ice packs or, in a pinch, packages of frozen peas. The limb should be bandaged firmly for support and to keep swelling down. Rest is the best long-term care for a tendon injury. It could take as long as 12 to 18 months for a tendon or ligament to fully heal. Only a veterinarian will be able to tell for sure if the injury is healed by means of an ultrasound.

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